Many thanks to Claiborne Young for contributing to our website. If you would like more information about his Cruising Guide Series, or wish to order any of his works, click here. |
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Many thanks to Claiborne Young for contributing to our website. If you would like more information about his Cruising Guide Series, or wish to order any of his works, click here. |
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Ocracoke is the only settled portion of the Outer Banks that can be reached by water alone. Though tourists have been discovering the charms of Ocracoke in increasing numbers during the last decade, the community has kept its distinct character perhaps better than any other village on the Banks. Many original homes remain, some streets are still sandy lanes, and the native Ocracoker can still be heard discussing the next "hoi toide." Ocracoke may well be the friendliest spot on the Banks. Visitors, particularly those who arrive by boat, are always welcome. In my opinion, cruising boaters who have not seen Ocracoke have not seen the Outer Banks. Ocracoke is served by a reliable, well-marked channel with minimum depths of 8 feet. The state provides regular ferry service through this cut to the mainland ports of Cedar Island and Swan Quarter. For this reason, the channel is maintained with particular care. The entrance cut leads to Silver Lake harbor, a pond-shaped, sheltered body of water dredged from Old Cockle Creek by the Corps of Engineers in 1931. The harbor has depths of 8 feet or better and makes an excellent spot to drop the hook if you do not choose to use the village facilities. Anchoring on Silver Lake, with the venerable Ocracoke Lighthouse and many old homes overlooking the harbor, is usually an idyllic experience. Ocracoke now has its own commercial marina in addition to the National Park Service docks, which have been around for time out of mind. The National Park Service docks have always been popular, probably because they were essentially free in the past. That policy has changed, and visiting skippers now have reason to consider both the public piers and private dockage on Silver Lake harbor. Upon entering Silver Lake harbor, you will first spy the Coast Guard headquarters and the North Carolina ferry docks to port. The fixed concrete National Park Service docks are next to the ferry piers. All visiting cruisers may tie to these piers on a first-come, first-served basis. There is a 14-day time limit for dockage, and fees are charged commensurate with those of local private facilities. Thirty-amp power and low-pressure water connections are available at all berths. There are no showers on the premises, but bathrooms are available from Memorial Day to Labor Day at the National Park Service headquarters, located across the street from the dockage complex. The three fixed wooden piers of Anchorage Marina flank Silver Lake's northeastern shores a short jog southeast of the National Park Service piers. Just look for the multistory, brick-faced Anchorage Inn behind the docks. You would just about have to be blind to miss this incongruous structure. Anchorage Marina accepts transients and provides berths with water and power connections. Most berths feature 7 to 10 feet of water, but some low-water soundings of 6 feet are found here and there. Gasoline and diesel fuel are available dockside, and mechanical repairs can be arranged. Bicycles are provided dockside for visiting cruisers-a real plus for making the acquaintance of the more distant portions of Ocracoke Island. Transients are also afforded guest privileges at the harborside swimming pool. The marina features an on-site grill which serves hamburgers, hot dogs, sandwiches, steamed shrimp, and other items from 10:30 a.m. until sunset. The adjacent Anchorage Inn is very convenient if you want to sleep ashore for a few evenings. The view from the upper-story rooms is absolutely spectacular. O'Neal's Dockside (252-928-1111) is located southeast of Anchorage Marina. Low-water depths alongside run about 8 feet. Currently, all of O'Neal's slips are filled by local craft. The small dock of the Community Store (252-928-3321) gazes out over the northeastern shore of Silver Lake Harbor a short jog southeast of O'Neal's. Gasoline and diesel fuel are available for all craft, but there is nothing else in the way of transient services available here. However, this is the place to buy food and supplies on Ocracoke Island. Though there are larger stores north of the village on N.C. 12, a visit to the Community Store goes hand in hand with a visit to Ocracoke. It's like stepping back in time 30 years to the local corner grocery store. The shelves are surprisingly well stocked with a full array of food items, including some fresh produce and frozen meats. One of Ocracoke's great attractions is its many fine restaurants. All are within a short walk of the waterfront. Captain Ben's (252-928-4741), Pony Island Restaurant (252-928-5701), and the Island Inn Dining Room (252-928-7821) are all justly famous for their seafood. Captain Ben's is a particularly attractive establishment, its walls covered with watercolor and oil seascapes. My personal favorite on the island is the Back Porch Restaurant (252-928-6401). As its name implies, some tables are set on a delightful screened porch, but inside dining is also available for inclement weather. All seafood items on the menu are served broiled; fried seafood is available by request. Many recipes are old Ocracoke favorites, and the quality of each dish is superb. Picking out one single item for praise is difficult, but the fillet of flounder dredged in nuts is certainly worthy of note. Visiting cruisers should do themselves a big favor and take advantage of this unusual dining opportunity. Another dining spot of note is the Cafe Atlantic (252-928-4861). It takes a walk of almost 2 miles north of Ocracoke harbor to reach this restaurant, located on the west side of N.C. 12, but the exercise should only serve to whet your appetite. The preparation of local seafood at Cafe Atlantic is a bit more sophisticated than what you might find at the other island eateries. Believe you me, the results are more than satisfying. There are a number of motels, grocery stores, and gift shops within a hefty walk of the harbor. The local post office is located on the harbor's northeastern shore. Just behind this modern building, visitors will discover the Old Post Office, which now houses Sally Newell Interiors and Homeport Realty and Construction. The National Park Service maintains an office just north of the docks. There, you can see displays detailing the natural history of the Outer Banks and check on the various talks and field trips given on a daily basis by the rangers. Ocracoke's Coast Guard station is just west of the National Park Service office. Just south of Silver Lake harbor, the snow-white Ocracoke Lighthouse stands over the village. Consider renting a bicycle at one of the many roadside rental facilities and visiting this splendid old sentinel. Built in 1823, Ocracoke Lighthouse is the oldest lighthouse in operation on the Outer Banks. Park rangers periodically open the base of the lighthouse and allow visitors to admire the old masonry, which has withstood so many tempests; check at the National Park Service office for tour times. If you are fortunate enough to take this tour, the park ranger will show you a strange phenomenon of the light's construction. While the inner wall is straight, the outer wall slopes inward from the base to the crown. This was accomplished by laying fewer and fewer courses of brick as the lighthouse rose. Finally, the exterior was finished with smooth, whitewashed plaster. For many years, wild ponies, probably the descendants of abandoned or shipwrecked Spanish stock, wandered at will on Ocracoke Island. Ocracoke's Boy Scout troop once patrolled the island's beaches atop these sturdy beasts. In those days, the annual "pony penning" was an event of great local interest. Today, for their own protection and preservation, the ponies are kept penned year-round in spacious fields well north of the village. You will probably need a ride from a friendly native to see the herd. If you are interested in visiting Portsmouth Island (see the section on Ocracoke Inlet History below) and its deserted village via commercial charter, inquire at the National Park Service headquarters or ask the dockmaster at Anchorage Marina or O'Neal's Dockside. Several local captains pilot flat-bottomed boats across southern Ocracoke Inlet's shallow waters and discharge visitors at Portsmouth. Most of these excursions are day trips, though overnight camping stays can occasionally be arranged through the National Park Service. Be sure to take along plenty of insect repellent. Ocracoke History In 1715, the North Carolina General Assembly authorized "an act for settling and maintaining Pilots at . . . Ocracoke Inlet." Thus began Ocracoke village, originally a settlement of pilots whose job was to bring inbound vessels safely over the Ocracoke bar. Ocracoke is probably one of the older communities on the Outer Banks. First as pilots, then as commercial fishermen, the islanders have always followed the tradition of the sea. After 1931, when Silver Lake harbor was dredged, commercial fishing operations grew. With the new harbor, local fishermen were able to use larger and deeper-draft vessels. Fishing remained the primary industry until the 1960s, when tourism began to thrive. In 1953, Cape Hatteras National Seashore was established. It eventually came to include much of Ocracoke Island. When the Ocracoke Highway was built in 1957, tourists began to visit the island in increasing numbers. Stanley S. Wahab and Bill Gaskill built inns on the island and did much to encourage the tourist trade. Today, Ocracoke draws many outsiders each year, but the island native still remembers the old days of isolation. Ocracoke Legend Like Hatteras, Ocracoke has spawned many colorful legends. One of the most intriguing is the story of the pirate Blackbeard's last battle. The bloody fight was supposedly waged in Teach's Hole channel near Ocracoke village. Some historians have cast doubt on this traditional tale, but it certainly makes an interesting yarn. The story goes that, near the end of his infamous career, Blackbeard hatched the idea of fortifying Ocracoke as a pirate haven. Hearing of this devilish plan and despairing of any help from Charles Eden, the colony's do-nothing Royal governor, the responsible citizens of coastal North Carolina appealed to Governor Alexander Spotswood of Virginia for aid. The call was answered with the dispatch of two small sloops under the command of Lieutenant Robert Maynard of the Royal Navy. The two craft sailed to Ocracoke, where they found Blackbeard's ship, the Adventure, at anchor in the channel. Maynard sent out two small boats to seek a clear passage to his quarry. These were fired upon. Maynard displayed his colors, and the battle began in earnest. One sloop soon ran aground, but Blackbeard bore down on the larger vessel, the Ranger, which was under Maynard's personal command. The Ranger was swept with cannon fire, for the British had only small arms with which to press the attack. Cleverly, Maynard ordered all his men below to escape the murderous fire. Seeing an apparently helpless vessel, Blackbeard brought the Adventure alongside and personally led the charge onto the deck of the British sloop. He soon met Maynard face to face, but as Blackbeard charged, the commander grazed his skull with a pistol shot. Charging up from his hiding place below, a Royal marine dealt the pirate a terrible neck wound with his saber. On and on Blackbeard fought with Maynard, until he finally fell dead at his enemy's feet. A later examination revealed that the pirate had suffered over 30 major wounds. In a grisly gesture, Maynard severed Blackbeard's head from his body and hung it upon the bowsprit. The body was flung overboard and is said to have swum three times around the Ranger before it sank. |
[Ocracoke]
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